Cape York trip by Beach Buggy, Oct/Nov 2010					File =	CapeYork2010.htm
1.0 Introduction		Having done this trip
several times previously by trailbikes and
4 WD's, it was time to give my home built
Buggy a serious test on a long trip. We were
constrained to leave on 27-Oct-2010, which
would not normally be too late, getting into
the wet season, which usually starts about
mid December onwards. Not so this year !!
This report will be a bit more detailed than
usual, as some members of the Manx Dune
Buggy club Qld., have expressed an interest
in doing this trip sometime in 2011.Therefore
we have included extra items which may be
useful for future Buggy travellers to the Cape
2.0 Approach Roads, and fastest trip.
The trip up to the Cape is approx. 2,700 km
from Brisbane, therefore it pays to break up
the Journey by as many interesting side
tracks as time permits. Some of these are
described below in the text. However, if you
are really pressed for time, the return trip
can be done in 8 days, from Brisbane, eg :-
Brisbane-Airlie Beach, 1 day, say 1000 km
Airlie Beach-Cairns +, 1 day,  say 700 km.
Cairn-Cape York,      2 days, say 1000 km
Fastest one way, say 4 days and 2,700 km.
Fastest return, say  8 days, and   5,400 km.
3.0 Preparation		Apart from normal trip preparation, car tools, spare parts, packing, we paid
		particular attention to the following items :-
3.1 Ignition leads.		The rubber ignition caps to the Subaru EJ 22 engine were replaced, as were
the spark plugs. The EJ 22 sucks moisture into the spark caps when it cools down, after heavy
rain or washdowns, causing one or more cylinders to misfire. We also carried a 12 volt compressor
with a small diameter tube, which could be used to "blow dry" inside the spark caps. Amazingly,
despite the heavy downpours we experienced for 5 days on our return leg, we didn't get any
ignition failures. The plug caps were dry when inspected at home !! (couldn't believe my eyes ?)
3.2 Snorkel, Dust trap, Air Cleaner
The previous aircleaner for my EJ 22 lived inside
the engine bay and got dirty quickly on sandy or dusty
tracks. The rear wheels would send up sand/dust into
the engine bay, which then required cleaning often,
between services. The roads to Cape York are still very
sandy & dusty, therefore I decided to install the Toyota
HiLux Snorkel, dust trap, air cleaner.
This was greatly appreciated while approaching or
travelling behind vehicles, spewing up much dust.
It was very easy to clean out and provided good clean
and cool air for the engine. Strongly recommended !
The only problem was it caught your eye in the rear view mirror, looking like a rear seat passenger.
3.3 Tyres, Wheel Bearings, Belts, hoses.				Do a pre-trip inspection and replace suspect items.
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3.4 Roof Cage Loading			All the items that it was hoped that we wouldn't have to use, were
packed into the roof cage. This included :- Spare wheel, spare petrol 10 lt., jumper leads, snatch
strap + D shackles, emergency pup tent, sleeping bags, pillows, lie down-tarp, axe, spade.
When travelling in the Buggy, we usually use motel/cabin accommodation as we don't have the room
for comforts such as tables and chairs, fridge, food, large stand up tent etc. Therefore, we only pack
emergency bedding/tent in case we get caught short somewhere.
3.5 Sun/wind protection			Don't forget a light weight long sleeve shirt + zinc cream/blockout
for both the driver and passenger. It's easy to get sunburn/windburn in the tropics, driving an open
top car. A bad case of sunburn on your arms can be easy to get, driving 8+ hours. I also found a
cap useful, especially when it started to rain heavily, and water started dripping thru the roof !
4.0 Route descriptions and photos, Stage by stage.(see map above)
4.1 Home to Agnes Water, Town of 1770.				Normally, we would head to  Agnes Water and Town of
1770, via Cooloola Beach, Freshwater track, Maryborough, Childers, then diverting thru Nth Burrum
Heads, Woodgate and KinKuna beach to Bundaberg. This time, we were running late and had to see
some friends at Bundaberg, so headed straight to Bundy. Then we continued on, thru Rosedale and
the Baffle Creek tavern or country club (which used to be a tin shed, now a nice pub !). Then on via
Deepwater National Park and Wreck Rock (where we would usually camp) via delightful bush tracks,
and on to Agnes Water/Town of 1770.These were the last stinger free beaches in Qld. Not sure now?
The Baffle Creek Country Club.  Used to be					Turnoff to Deepwater National Park and
a tin shed, not long ago. I've had a few here.					Wreck Rock. Good camping area & beach.
Great track into Wreck Rock camp area.					Beach at Wreck Rock, no stingers ??
4.2 Agnes Water to Airlie Beach, Bowen.				Couldn't get a motel in Town of 1770, so drove around
the  area and stayed at Agnes Water, nearby. Headed North to Airlie Beach, my old home town.
I had an amazing booking on the road from Airlie to Proserpine, about 15 years ago. There was a
a large boat parked on the side of the road. The cop was hiding behind the two big engines, radared
me, then stood up and flagged me down !! Booked by a Water Police boat, me speeding on the road?
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Great lookout on peninsula at Town of 1770.					Beach at 1770. Stingers in summer now ?
Safe lagoon at Airlie Beach. Used to be OK					Handy motel in Airlie Beach. The town has
to swim anywhere in winter, not any more.					grown enormously since I lived here.
View of Whitsunday passage from Telstra hill.					View of Shute harbour, ferry base.
				<--------	View of newer ferry terminal between
					Airlie Beach and Cannonvale. Another
					ferry terminal is being built in Muddy Bay,
					closer to the centre of town.
					Airlie Beach is a lovely town to visit, but I
					found living there a bit limited. Once you get
					sick of fishing and boating, the place loses
					its appeal, with hundreds of crazy young
					backpackers mooning around constantly.
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Rose Bay, Bowen, safe swimming, they say ??					Rose Bay resort, Bowen, great value, loc'n.
4.3 Bowen to Charters Towers, Mareeba, via Burdekin Dam crossing !!??
From Bowen, we headed inland to head north, to cross the Base of the Burdekin Dam. Luckily, we
stopped at a unique inland pub/farm north of Collinsville where we learned that the dam crossing was
closed due to flood water flows. We had to make long detours via Mt. Coolon and Belyando to get
around the problem. Had we headed for the dam crossing, we calculated that we would have run out
of petrol, as that route was much longer. The locals advised us that no "road closed" signs are ever
put up as they are too far from any habitation, for the Police or Council workers.
Track towards Burdekin dam crossing.					Bowen River pub/farmhouse. Good warning.
Views near Ravenshoe, inland from coast.					Private museum, near Mareeba.
			<--- Another museum display.
				View looking down
				escarpment towards
				Port Douglas------->
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4.4 Port Douglas to Cooktown, via Captain Cook hwy, Cape Tribulation and Bloomfield track.
The coast road from Pt. Douglas to Cooktown via Cape Tribulation is a "must do" track. The views
are fantastic and the roads have been improved considerably, with the 4 creek crossings being the
major impediment to 2WD vehicles. Put this one on your "bucket list". I was a little apprehensive
about some of the creek crossings drowning my engine, but no problems at all, nowadays ! All the
very steep sections have been concreted and Bloomfield river now has an "all tide" causeway.
Daintree river ferry.					Bloomfield river causeway. No problem now.
Bloomfield river, many good bush camps.					Lions Den pub, another famous bush icon !
Good value motel, Cooktown.					Captain Cook's lookout hill, Cooktown.
				<----------	Statue of Captain Cook, Cooktown.
					Cooktown caters well for tourists, good
					value food, accommodation, museums etc.
					Could spend a day or two here.
					Last chance for major repairs or spare parts
					before hitting Cape Development tracks.
					I said tracks, which are now good quality
					gravel roads, millions having been spent.
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4.5 Cooktown to Archer River Roadhouse, via Lakeland, Laura, Musgrave, Coen.
The road from Cooktown to Lakeland (and to Cairns) is now all weather and paved. The gravel roads
north to Archer river are superb quality, millions have been spent. Petrol supply is no problem.
Black mountain, near Cooktown.					Laura roadhouse.
Typical gravel road, go for your life. Only dust,					Sexchange hotel Coen, Melb. Cup Day.
roadworks, or the boss, can slow you down !					People often photographed/admired my car.
Archer River rooms, $120/ nite and no A/C ?					Pump girls dressed up nicely for Melb. Cup.
Archer River roadhouse, all facilities + camping.					Flowing water in Archer river, rare sight ?
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We caused a small sensation at Archer River roadhouse, when we arrived on Melb. Cup day. There
were many tourists there and they gathered around in droves, looking at and photographing the
Buggy. (including some Yanks) The pump girls were all done up with high heels, hats, nice dresses.
4.6 Archer River to the Top, Punsand Bay Resort.
The next section, from Archer river to the top, via Wenlock, Bramwell, Jardine used to be a very bad
2 wheel track. Now, its easy going all the way, with reliable petrol at Bramwell and Jardine river.
The Bamaga turnoff. Easy going.					View of Wenlock river from new bridge.
Bramwell roadhouse, fuel and food.					This used to be 2 wheel tracks.
Jardine ferry roadhouse. $88 return for ferry.					The alternative ford has been dug deep !!??
The Punsand Bay resort, very close to the top, is a delightful place with all facilities, including cabins,
on site tents, camp sites, food, booze, swimming pool and is located beside the sea, within sight of
the tip of Cape York. There is a short cut, from Punsand Bay to the tip, about 7 km., which is one of
the last challenging tracks on this trip. Could be difficult to pass other cars here. You need pretty
high clearance here to get over rocks and ruts caused by water. Felt more like old times here !
There is a longer, alternative route to the tip, for low clearance vehicles. The superb old Pajinka
resort, right near the tip, was trashed by the locals and is still closed. $20 million just wasted ?
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4.7 At the top, Tip of Cape York, Somerset, and then it began to pour down in buckets !!
Punsand Bay cabins, camping available also.					View from cabin, looking north.
Beach at Punsand Bay, look out for crocs, stingers !					Onsite tents, as good as cabins, available.
Safe swimming at Punsand Bay.					Parj testing esky. Cabins had 24hr. Power.
Croc and stinger warning signs, don't ignore.					Short cut track, Punsand Bay to tip, 7km.
I've swum here often after motorcycle trips					You need high clearance and I reckon lower
but the locals say don't go too far out.					your tires to 10-15 psi if sand is dry.
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Tip walk parking area, then 20 minute walk to top.					Great views, look at the rain building up?
The TOP marker. Islands in the background.					Good one Yollie, well done. Rain coming !
The "other" North Cape in Norway, we were					Track to Somerset. Old track was very deep
there in June this year. Two out of 2, in 1 year !					& narrow with track sides at window height !
Jardine memorial, Somerset. Some cannons,					And now the rains started. Filled the floor
markers and graves. This used to be a very					before we got the side curtains on. Visibility
difficult, narrow, steep track, hard to pass others.					was bad, and slipped around a bit !
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4.8 Return trip, from TOP to home.				Because if was mostly raining so hard, we could not
take many photos, or do some more side trips on the way home. We were concerned about losing
spark to the engine, and were more or less in survival mode. Some may question why we didn't take
the more difficult "Telegraph track" coming up or going down. Some sections on this track, used to
have some deep and long creek crossings, and since we were alone, we were reluctant to get stuck,
towards the end of the season, with little traffic on the roads. The bonnet of my 4WD has gone under
water on some of these crossings, and I've had to push my motorbikes across with the engines off !
This track may have been improved, but I was unable to confirm any current track conditions.
We ended up taking the most direct way home, including the Captain Cook hwy, Pt Douglas to
Cairns. At one section, after Miriam Vale, it rained so hard it was dangerous to keep driving or even
stop !! I managed a leg of 375 km., using 34.5 litres of petrol. Tank capacity was 34.8 I believe ??
Termite nest, in between showers.					Emu at Hahn River roadhouse, good one.
Good roadhouse, friendly, has everything.					Yollie with parrot on shoulder at Hahn river.
Good road from Lakeland to Cairns, via					Get some spectacular views on the high
Palmer river and Mt., Carbine.					points at both ends. Short "break" from rain.
Mt Carbine used to have a cow (or bull ?)					Palmer River roadhouse or Mt Carbine both
which walked into the pub, bludging beer.					have accommodation and camping, food and
I kid you not, I've had to move away from it.					booze.
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Captain Cook "heritage hwy" views.					More Captain Cook "heritage hwy" views.
After Cairns, the rain continued heavily. South of Miriam Vale, we really copped it. We just kept
going, hoping the electrics and wipers kept working, We were glad to get home in one piece.
Conclusions.		Normally, this is not a difficult trip, just long. Therefore, it is worthwhile doing
		some side tracks on the way up and back, if you have the time available.
		This trip, the rains came earlier than normally expected, but the Buggy and
		its equipment, the canopy, spark plugs, wipers and suchlike worked OK. Any
		preparation or preventative maintenance is offcourse strongly recommended.
Timing of trip		The roads are open from late April till mid December usually. Try and avoid the
		school holidays as traffic is heavy, resulting in pressure on accomodations &
		could result in delays at the Jardine ferry. (they only work to rules, if that)
Itineraries and		I have not included itineraries or costing details, as at our age, we need to
Costings		travel in some comfort and stay in motels when travelling in the Buggy.
		Also, most younger guys could do 1000 km., per day, on the approach roads.
		We generally prefer say 400 to 650 km., max, depending on circumstances.
		Our itineraries and costings are available to anyone, if they are interested.
Travelling in		When travelling behind other vehicles, you need to be a fair way behind to
convoy		avoid the dust. This could make it difficult when travelling in convoy, as the
		cars would be spaced far apart. Maybe UHF radios could be useful here ?
Mobile phones		North of Cooktown, mobile phones only worked at Coen and Punsand Bay.
and radio		We got good ABC radio at Punsand Bay. Has anyone tried to get a car radio
		to work in a Beach Buggy ? I suspect earphones could be dangerous ?
		We have to shout to talk to each other when motoring above 60 kph.
Petrol		If your Buggy has a range of 300km., you shouldn't need to use your
availability		emergency petrol. I went over this by choice, since it was raining hard, and
		got away with it. We were getting 11 km./ lt., most times.
		Maximum range I got was 375 km., driving carefully in heavy rain !
Maps & Sat Nav.		The RACQ maps, for all Qld.+ detail maps of coastal sections and Cape York
		are all you need. If you use a Sat Nav, make sure it is securely fixed to the
		car by screws or glue. There are still plenty of corrugations to shake it loose.
Useful Link to a		The Manx Dune Buggy Club of Qld., has an extremely good website for Buggy
good Buggy website.		owners and builders. They have about 500 members, in Australia & overseas.
		Anyone reading this report, will find their following website very interesting :-
		www.manxclub.org/
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