Simpson Desert Crossing, by single car, April 2004
Trip Synopsis
|
This Simpson Desert crossing from East to West, via the QAA Line and the French Track, was 530 km from Birdsville to Mt Dare and was part of a 15,000 km trip taken from Noosa (QLD) to Broome (WA) via the Simpson Desert and Tanami Track, Gibb River Rd., Gulf Track and back to Noosa. The trip was done by John Parjel and Yolanda Phillips, commencing 18-Apr-04, and took 2 1/2 days. We couldn't go past Dalhousie Springs on the second day as the warm (hot) spring waters were so appealing so we pushed on to Mt. Dare on the morning of the 3rd day, via Dalhousie ruins, after another delightful hot dip. |
|
Vehicle
|
We used a 5 month old Nissan Pathfinder automatic, 3.3 lt. V6 petrol, with 13,000 km on the clock. Our kit included:-
|
Fuel
|
Together with 80 lt. in the car, we carried an extra 75 lt. in 6 Kevlar fuel tanks, totaling 155 lt. The The 530 km. desert crossing used 110 lt. at 4.82 km. / lt. I wasn't light on the pedal. |
Single Vehicle
|
We had been duly warned by all and sundry that it was very unwise to attempt this crossing in a single vehicle, rather than in a convoy of 2 or more. We felt reasonably confident as we had extensive experience in sand and difficult 4WD tracks, both in 4WD and on trail bikes, and we were well aware of the problems of oncoming traffic, on top of the sand dunes. The new car (only 13,000 km) plus much practice in getting free in soft sand plus the fact that it was early in the season (less oncoming traffic) persuaded us to try it alone |
QAA Line leg (210 km)
Birdsville to Poeppel
corner. via Big Red plus 50 km into French Line.
|
Big Red held no terrors for us, having done it previously by trail bikes and in an unloaded KIA Sportage. We deflated to 25 psi and made it easily on the 1st attempt. Took some hero shots from the top. No problems to Poeppel cnr. Took the mandatory
photos of the marker post and pressed on 50 km into the French Line. Had a
magnificent campsite, alone under the stars. |
|
|
Climbing Big Red |
Poepel Corner
(SA, Qld, NT) |
|
On
Top of Big Red |
End of French Line |
French Line leg (221 km)
From 50 km into
French Line, to Dalhousie Springs
|
The sand dunes here became more difficult and frequent. You had to balance the need for momentum for getting over the dunes, against the fear of unseen oncoming traffic near the crests. There were 3 dunes that gave us trouble, all because I had to back off or slow down, coming towards the crests. The best solution was to leave my passenger near the top, carefully back down the dune trying to stay on the track, then drive up hard with the flag marshal on the top. Even then, we had to dig ourselves out on one occasion. One double track dune took 3 attempts and 20 psi in the tyres. On some of the smaller dunes, which we made without stopping, there was the constant fear of unseen oncoming traffic. I'm not sure that the mandatory flags, high on aerials, would have saved us on some of the steep and windy crests. What would it be like in June to September during peak periods? |
A difficult curving hill on the French Line |
|
Had some fun on some long
straight and level soft sand stretches, just before Dalhousie Springs
which was a welcome oasis. We camped there for the night, rather than
press on to Mt. Dare, and had another wonderful hot swim next
morning. | |
Dalhousie to Mt Dare (99 km)
|
Easy traveling on good gravel roads, via
Dalhousie ruins on the third morning. Fuelled up at Mt. Dare to continue
our trip to Erldunda and Ayers Rock and beyond (see map). Total in Simpson
Desert, 530km |
Simpson Summary
|
Even though we managed the Simpson Desert section, alone and without major problems, we consider ourselves somewhat fortunate. We are not convinced that the major problem of meeting unseen oncoming traffic on the crests of sand dunes would be eliminated by traveling in convoy. Certainly, having a Flag marshal on some of the dune crests is helpful, but you cannot do this on all of the 1000 odd dunes in the desert ! I suspect the incidence of near misses or head on collisions will increase, as more and more inexperienced drivers attempt this track in the peak periods of Jun. to Sep. We met 3 sets of oncoming traffic, 1 convoy and one car on the QAA and 1 car on the French Line. These all occurred on flat sections of track, between dunes. The problems of mechanical breakdown and tyre failure are reduced, but not eliminated, in convoy. We did not have a single puncture in the entire 15,000 km trip although we did manage to tear off a side step, going slowly over a hidden stump. This was welded back on at Broome. Incidentally, the costs of vehicle recovery, from Birdsville, were quoted as from $600 to $7,000. This is calculated on a time and distance basis, with the towed vehicle needing to be winched up every sand hill. Imagine having to do this for several hundred sand hills ? (I don't think they were pulling my leg). The Pathfinder was extremely satisfactory. It had plenty of room, good power and torque and good underbody clearance, apart from the side step attachments! One drawback was the original front bashplate, made of treated cardboard, which would not have survived the numerous creek crossings or normal wear and tear. The 3mm steel plate I substituted had major scratches and bashes on it, after the trip. Nevertheless, while driving in air-conditioned comfort with power steering and the CD player on, my thoughts often drifted back to my first crossing on a 250 cc trail bike, carrying little else but extra petrol. What on earth could have possessed me to go thru that pain and agony, voluntarily ?? We were pleasantly surprised to have ABC radio up to 300 km. west of Birdsville, in daytime. |
Rest of Trip
|
Following are brief highlights of the
remainder of our trip. The Tanami Track is an easy 2WD in dry weather. Rabbits Flat roadhouse is still closed Tues to Thurs. and petrol prices are steep. Make sure you look at Wolfe's Crater, getting near Halls Creek. Broome is a delightful town, and Cable Beach van park is a special. On the Gibb River Road, we had some worries crossing the Durack River, about 800 mm. deep and the Pentecost River, about 750 mm., with very rocky bottoms. This was early in the season and the road had only just opened. We used a front tarp to shield the engine and hoped that Nissan electrics were better than their bash plate or side step attachments. Made it OK but would have been more comfortable in a convoy! The Ord River dam is worth a sidetrack. The Darwin Pier barramundi meals at under $10 are unbelievable value, in a pleasant seaside setting. The Adelaide River jumping salt water crocs are a must see and great value. (look out for Hannibal) The Kakadu area provided some interesting side trips, while many were still closed. Katherine Gorge looks great from a helicopter, and good value at $60 per head, if I remember right. Mataranka homestead. The hot springs were welcome, but not the loud blaring rock band at night (am I getting older?) Along the gulf track, between Roper Bar and Borroloola, on a causeway, we had to ask a freshie to move out of our way to drive across. Took its photo from 3 ft away ! Borroloola fishing camps at Batten Point. The number of fishing camps along the river here, reminded me of the Fraser Island beach fishermen, when the Tailor are running. They had come from all over Australia, tents or vans side by side in the hundreds (thousands ?) hoping to catch the elusive Barra. Talk about the river of broken dreams, after a long hard trip from say VIC or SA. At Borroloola van park, we ran into some friends from Tewantin Tennis club (small world). The Gulf Track, to Burketown was no problem, despite what the NT and QLD road reports stated. We had been advised by oncoming travelers that the track and creek crossings were OK. After we got home, the RACQ road report still claimed this section was impassable !! At Kurumba, we gorged ourselves on the
local prawns, the season having just opened. The trip home from Kurumba
was more or less routine, in our own backyard, so to
speak. |
|
|
|
A
typical sunset seen along the
way |
